If you climb, you’ve probably already heard of Little Cottonwood Canyon. And if you haven’t? Well, consider this your official invite.
Just a short drive from Salt Lake City, Little Cottonwood Canyon isn’t just close, it’s classic. With splitter cracks, delicate slabs, bold faces, and seasonal ice flows, the canyon offers something for nearly every type of climber, especially if you’re into trad, bouldering, or ice.
No matter your rock climbing style, there’s a piece of Little Cottonwood Canyon that’ll get under your skin (in the best way).
A Canyon with History
Back in the day, some of the most challenging routes in the U.S. were first climbed in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Rock climbing legends like George and Jeff Lowe, Greg Lowe, and Rick Reese helped shape Western climbing; onsight, gear in hand, no rehearsals.
And those grades? Still sandbagged by today’s standards. But that’s part of the appeal! These climbs are bold, demanding, and don’t hand out success easily.
Little Cottonwood Canyon remains a proving ground. While gear has evolved, the routes haven’t softened. Thanks to a strong local community and groups like the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, the legacy and the adventure lives on.
Geology of Little Cottonwood Canyon
Little Cottonwood Canyon is home to Albion granite — clean, dense, and full of friction. It’s not just solid; it’s sculpted for rock climbing. Here’s why it stands out:
- Crack heaven: Splitters, seams, flared dihedrals, and even pin scars that surprisingly take gear.
- Variety: Smooth slabs, roofs, face holds, and crystal-lined ledges mix it up pitch to pitch.
- Steep and bold: Many routes rise straight from the canyon walls, with technical starts, tricky pro, and the kind of runouts that make your palms sweat.
In winter, that same exposed granite teams up with canyon moisture to form solid, climbable ice; like the iconic Great White Icicle, a favorite for new and seasoned climbers alike.
But that’s enough of the history and breakdown of rock type. Let’s get into the good stuff…the climbs!
Trad Climbing
If you’re coming to Little Cottonwood Canyon for the first time, trad is where you begin. This is what put the canyon on the map.
Expect clean cracks, bold lines, and a proud history of ground-up ascents. The gear is there, but the canyon is known for keeping things exciting. Protection can be sparse, and the rock climbing style is technical. You’ll want your head in the game.
A Few Must-Climb Trad Classics
The Coffin (5.9, 80′): A legendary finger crack that splits a clean wall and is easily one of the most photographed climbs in the canyon. The gear is good, the exposure is real, and the setting? Unreal. Don’t be surprised if a moose wanders by while you’re belaying.
Perhaps (5.9+): Delicate and gear-intensive, this thin crack route is a test of your small pro game. Most climbers stop after pitch one (it’s the best part), but there are two more if you’re feeling extra adventurous.
Pentapitch (5.8, 5 pitches): A perfect warm-up or intro to multi-pitch granite. Expect slabby starts, crack transitions, and a stellar final pitch that makes the whole thing worth it. Bring long runners to cut rope drag, and don’t skip the last pitch! It’s the cherry on top.
Bouldering
The granite here isn’t just good for cracks, it’s a boulderer’s playground. Think technical slab, slopey top-outs, and the occasional skin-shredding crimp. And yes, the landings are a bit old-school. Bring extra pads and a good spotter.
A Few Must-Climb Bouldering Classics
Twisted (V4): A local favorite. Starts in a dihedral, then transitions into some balancey moves on crimps and stems. The top-out is chill, but getting there? All about precision. Expect a bit of a crowd on weekends!
Don’t Fall (V3): Straightforward and satisfying. The name says it all! It’s slightly highball with a mental crux at the top. Stick the mantle and feel like a champ. Bonus: Flat landing, which is a gift in Little Cottonwood Canyon.
Ice Climbing
If you’ve got tools in your trunk and a thirst for vertical ice, Little Cottonwood Canyon delivers on ice climbing spots. The season is typically from late December through early March, with conditions depending on temperatures, snowfall, and sun exposure. And while this isn’t Ouray, you’ll still find plenty to swing into.
A Few Must-Climb Ice Classics
The Great White Icicle (WI3): Close to the road and beginner-friendly, the Great White Icicle sees plenty of traffic, and for good reason. With four distinct pitches, reliable ice, and a car-to-car legend in under 20 minutes, it’s a solid introduction to Utah ice.
Scruffy Band (WI3-4): Shorter and lower in the canyon, this flow is an awesome spot for newer climbers or anyone looking for a quick burn. There’s even a hanging pillar (WI5-6) for those looking to test their tools.
Planning Your Trip
When to Climb
- Trad: Late spring to early fall (May–October)
- Bouldering: Summer mornings and crisp fall days are ideal.
- Ice: Mid-winter, especially January–February
Climber Etiquette
- Respect closures — access in Little Cottonwood Canyon is a delicate balance between climbers, landowners, and the U.S. Forest Service.
- Stick to established trails.
- Pack it in, pack it out. And yes, that includes chalk balls and tape.
Getting Around
The canyon’s narrow, winding road sees heavy traffic, especially on weekends and powder days. Carpool when you can. Park smart, follow signage, and be mindful of seasonal restrictions (UDOT tickets are no joke).
Rock Climbing Little Cottonwood Canyon: Bold Lines, Big Days, and a Place to Crash
Climbers don’t come to Little Cottonwood Canyon for the easy ticks. They come for the clean granite, the intense gear placements, the sandbags that teach you something, and the stories that get told around the table afterward.
This canyon has history in its cracks and personality in every pitch. And it keeps giving…if you’re willing to put in the work.
Need a Home Base?
Alta Chalets is right up the road from Little Cottonwood Canyon, offering comfortable, well-equipped rentals close to the action. Hot showers, full kitchens, quiet views of the mountains, and everything you need after a long day on the wall. Book your stay, skip the camping hassle, and climb more. The rock’s not going anywhere.
